Preparation

From Principles of Applied Arts

The term "preparation" in this context refers to the preliminary setup, protection, priming an base painting of rooms and surfaces prior to decorative painting. For professional Decorative Painting this can require a vast knowledge base in many subjects as well as a proficiency in the use of many Tools

INSTRUCTORS NOTE: Preparation is the most important part of decorative painting, and key to separating the amateurs from the professionals. The objective of preparation is: clean lines and no mess! Preparation includes removing all furniture, masking, covering floors, repairing & patching all surfaces, and finally priming surfaces to be painted. Lack of proper preparation may result in damage to property and can affect the look of your end result, especially in corners and in between obstacles or architectural details. Taking great care to protect your client’s home and furnishings will pay off in your good reputation - and reduced insurance claims.

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Taping Under Plaster

The plaster you apply to the wall surface will dry much thicker than layers of paint. If your plaster dries thick over your tape line, it is nearly impossible to break the tape away cleanly. Scoring thick plaster at the tape line is a tough task and rarely results in a straight clean line. Here are a few suggestions to save the struggle of tape removal under dried plaster at the end of a job.

Smooth Surfaces: Seal your tape line for smooth surfaces. Apply your first plaster layer 1/8" from your tape line. Taper down any ridge left by the plaster with a 2" plastic spatula - pressing onto the tape with your spatula slightly harder than the opposite edge. (If it is a corner, press into the corner firmly). Use the same technique with all subsequent layers.

Textured Surfaces: Seal your tape line for textured surfaces. With a 2" plastic spatula, skim the tape edge with your plaster to smooth out the texture (about 2" into the wall). Be sure the layer is thin over your tape line. Let skim layer dry. Apply your first plaster layer 1/8" from your tape line. Taper down any ridge left by the plaster with a 2" plastic spatula - pressing onto the tape with your spatula slightly harder than the opposite edge. (If it is a corner, press into the corner firmly). Use the same technique with all subsequent layers.

Stay aware of your plaster application as you go - not after you are done.

Check your tape line when you have finished each pass on a wall. If you cannot faintly see your line through the plaster, wet-sand the area with a damp rag.

When all layers are complete, you may break the tape back on itself lengthwise to crack the seal, and pull away a clean line.

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Covering Floors

Secure plastic drop cloths to the floor with a high tack masking tape to prevent movement of seams and edges. The goal is to seal off the floor, creating a "bath tub" effect. Securing the plastic to the floor is particularly important when spraying paint or glaze, in order to keep the plastic from blowing around and possibly sticking to the sprayed surface.

Cover with drop cloths. Suggested material: Butyl rubber backed canvas tarps. Drop cloths without a rubber backing may need to be taped to the floor to avoid slipping.

Plastic and drop cloths = Double duty: It is best to use both plastic drop cloths and canvas drop cloths when applying messy faux finishes, or any time added protective insurance is desired.

When using scaffolding, it is important to use a hard board such as 1/4" plywood under the scaffolding. When you are working over hardwood flooring, it is vital that you use a plywood board under the wheels to prevent them from damaging the floor when weight is added or when positioning the scaffolding. Be sure to lay tarps or blankets under the plywood; otherwise the plywood will scratch the hardwood flooring. When working over carpet, plywood placed over your plastic and tarps will help level the scaffolding and make it easier to manuever.

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