Masking
From Principles of Applied Arts
Note: Surfaces must be clean and free from dust prior to taping otherwise tape will not adhere to the surface. Be sure to use the right tape for the job!
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Sealing Tape Lines
Tape must be sealed to the surface to avoid paint from “leaking behind” the tape edge. Again, clean lines are what separate the amateurs from the professionals.
Important note: With all techniques, tape should be scored lightly prior to removing to avoid pulling off the faux finish.
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Techniques for sealing tape
- Burnish Technique - used for Smooth Surface: Use a firm plastic spatula to press the tape onto surface. This activates the tape adhesive.
- Tape Caulking Technique - used for Smooth and Textured Surfaces: Run a thin bead of 'Painter’s Caulk' (Do not use Silicone Caulk) along the edge of the tape; wrap your finger with a wet cotton rag and wipe off the excess caulk, leaving just a trace of caulk on the edge of the tape. Note: Remember to score the tape edge prior to removing it.
- Varnish – Water based, clear varnish – such as Modern Masters Dead Flat or Satin Varnish. This technique is very fast. Use a brush to apply the varnish over the tape to seal the edge. Like all other methods, score the tape lightly prior to removal to avoid pulling off the faux finish. For textured surfaces, use this method over the tape caulking technique for added sealing protection.
- Existing Base Paint - used for striping, harlequins, etc.: Brush the existing base paint over the edge of the tape. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly before applying the decorative finish. Note: Remember to score the tape edge prior to removing it.
Hiding Bleed Through
- Your caulk will 'Bleed Through' your tape line onto your protected wall as it seals the gaps on textured surfaces. To avoid visible bleed through, here are a few tips to help match the existing wall color: [1] Mix the existing base paint with joint compound in a small container with a spatula. You may also need to add tint as the joint compound will cause the color to lighten slightly. Apply to the edge of the tape with your finger and wipe the excess off with a damp cotton rag. [2] Mix the existing base paint with clear caulk in a small container with a spatula. Apply to the edge of the tape with your finger and wipe the excess off with a damp cotton rag. [3] Light colors: Tint Painter's Caulk to match the base color in a small container with a spatula. Apply to the edge of the tape with your finger and wipe the excess off with a damp cotton rag. [4] Deep colors: Inexpensive acrylic Venetian Plaster tinted to match the base color works great as a custom caulk and sticks to most surfaces. Apply to the edge of the tape with your finger and wipe the excess off with damp cotton rag.
- Using these steps ahead of time will save touching up your line at the end of the job.
- Note: The addition of paint or joint compound to caulk inhibits the caulk from stretching when you remove the tape. By using these caulking techniques, you can most often break the tape away without having to score it, resulting in the perfect tape line.
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Methods for filling trim gaps
Trim gap – an open gap between the trim and the wall. Trim gaps need to be filled and sealed for two reasons: First, if not sealed properly it becomes a week spot in the final finish. Moisture and dust can work their way into the gap and eventually the painted surface will fail. Second, without filling the gap, it is impossible to get straight lines at these transition points.
- Lead edge - When taping a trim gap, place the tape at least 1/32nd of an inch away from the back edge of the trim (in other words “leading the edge”). Fill the gap with painter’s caulk; this ensures that the caulk grabs a hold of the trim and will not fail when removing the tape.
- Backing rod – A backing rod is a foam insert designed to fill gaps larger than 1/4 inch. After filling the gap with the backing rod, run a bead of painter’s caulk along the edge to seal it. Without a backing rod, painter’s caulk tends to fall into the gap, or shrink, as it dries. The same result may occur even after filling the gap several times with painter’s caulk alone and no backing rod.
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Also see
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